Prusa petg issues. Tried printing at 225-240 and still the same issue.

Prusa petg issues I now have PETG at 215c. Tim's advice is solid. That's the primary reason I use my Mk4 almost exclusively to print PETG. Some more information: -model is a 30x30x30 cube with some features. De-retraction seems to be the issue to look at. Specifically, I have had NONE of the "common" PETG problems with stringing, filament building up on the nozzle, turning black, and being deposited somewhere on the print. My only PETG issue is the first layer not sticking to the bed. It's not a calibration issue. As test item I used a base with two pyramids that their top was a 2X2 mm square. ) PETG Support Print Issues. r/prusa3d. Turned out, the nozzle temperature. 5 and turn flow calibration off. But getting that first layer right should help towards getting it to print successfully. I keep different profile for them for this reason. I am printing on a Prusa i3 MK3 with white PETG and I face several issues when it comes to the extruder shaping the bridge and solid infill. 2 quality, then your speed is slower, Leave door of printer enclosure open. I finally got 1st layer pretty dialed in and the main object prints okay (will hopefully tune it in more later), but the supports that print with it print terribly, and sometimes cause the print to PETG problems. PETG sticks very well to the smooth pei sheet, if you want to use that plate then clean as normal with iso then apply a little window cleaner with a separate cloth, or you can use a different type of plate like the satin or textured but I always had issues with the textured so I tend to use one side of the smooth for PLA and another for In my experience PETG performs best with low or no fan at all. Members Online. You can see another part being printed that is not having the same difficulty, but it is not as wide. The Prusa key fob printed correctly in the center of the bed using Prusa PLA. 5. My mk4 printed fine with the PLA that came with the printer, but when I am trying to print in PETG I can't get acceptable results. But in the end I used a more textured sheet (an Ali express one) and it works as well as PLA on my MK4. The new heater and hot block are oriented completely different and Prusa doesn’t seem to realize it. I was having similar problems getting PETG to stick but am making progress. Restarting the print seems to fix the issue, so it doesn’t seem to be a gcode thing. 2 mm Quality, Prusament PETG (using Prusament PETG setting) Clear benchy: Prusa Slicer , 0. Every material on every surface (I've tried 3 surfaces so far, 2*smooth, textured, all Prusa). Just for the sake of clarity, the MK4 has its flow rate set to 100% by I am printing on a Prusa i3 MK3 with white PETG and I face several issues when it comes to the extruder shaping the bridge and solid infill. Now Issue A When using PETG as support on PLA prints Prusa Slicer (2. Hello, I use a lot of PETG filament, and for my PEI-bed I use a good( well know in the Netherlands, in a green boottle) dishwasher, one drop pure on the bed , I wipe it over, wash it off with water and dry it with a clean dishtowel for every!!!new print I do this, and this works perfect. 7. Apparently, without reason. Using Prusa Mini + with Prusament White PETG, default ironing settings: all top surfaces, 15 % flow rate, . When I used Prusa Slicer with Prusament petg settings this happened. Prusa Mini+, Polymaker Polylite PETG, using PrusaSlicer I'm trying to dial this filament in, but I cannot get the bridging to be even remotely acceptable. Well, I may owe Prusa an apology! having done some research I've added the 4S profile to the slicer software it has started printing much better. It is possible to either purchase an enclosure in our e-shop. Images here. Soap and hot water = Prusa Orange PETG sticking! I might try the “first layer speed to 10” a go, just to add to the probability of a good first layer. RE: Issues with SUNLU PETG. Slicer: PrusaSlicer. PETG also really doesn’t like moisture as others have stated, and even if it’s a freshly opened spool a few hours in a food dehydrator can make a massive difference in quality (not RE: Started happening with Input Shaping. This has worked for me and have no problems with PLA, PETG, ASA, and ABS. Normally i use glue sick, but it did not work, cleaned the table , clean with alcohol(and dish soap), now it sticks, with nothing on the table. Adjusted pinda, first layer, ran wizard, adjusted slicer settings to no PETG, ABS, ASA, XT, and CPH You can easily recognize this issue when the printer does not extrude plastic for the first layer or two. too low for the new CHT nozzle coming with MK4S, which resulted in partial clogging and random problems I wouldn't have associated with extrusion in the first place. I increased the support extrusion width from 0. Many strings and poor first layer. 1. Initially I had issues with bed adhesion. I know this is 8 months old - but I am struggling with a similar problem. I have seen a similar effect. I am having some issues with printing with PETG and would like help to understand what could be going on. I have to clean up the The trick to printing PETG is in your slicer set Z offset to 0. All test objects My temps when I printed on smooth with PETG was Prusament PETG or Generic PETG profile. Posted : 04/04/2022 11:26 pm Bob (@bob-2) Prusa I3 Mk2 kit upgraded to Mk2. It allows for better adhesion and more space to squish if necessary. However, in the PRUSA forums I read of similar issues where folks reported that setting Z offset to . 4. I suspect the first layer may be to do with Prusa temp 240°C -> thermocouple temp 243°C. Printing PETG on the textured sheet is nearly enough, but not quite. PLA: Filament Settings: Filament: Extruder: first layer 250, other layers 240 Cooling: disable "Keep fan always on" Original Prusa i3 MK2/S. On the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3. 4. I've been able to get smaller prints in PETG to stick to the middle of the textured plate Firmware on the Printer is 4. I've used Overture PETg on the MK3s off and on with no issues. 20mm QUALITY Hi all, warping again and again. Assembly and first prints troubleshooting. Using all default setting for Prusa PETG. I made the following changes that helped - but I'm never quite happy with PETG vs. Re: Problem with stringing on Black PETG. Set your temps correctly. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most As PETG is usually more challenging to print than PLA, poor layer adhesion with PETG is a common issue in the community despite PETG being one of the strongest filament materials. I had this same issues I contact prusa for hours and no results so I tried printing at 10 degrees c higher and that fixed it I was using petg black maybe the formula has changed I have printed this PETG and the Prusament First layer issues; Ghosting; Holes in print (SL1/SL1S) Layer separation and splitting FDM; Layer shifting; Object missing details; Poor bridging; How to fix it; Print detached from supports (SL1/SL1S) Print doesn't appear / Resin does RE: Stringing Issue Prusa MK3s (PLA) I manage to remove completely PETG stringing on MK3S+, at least up to a surface 2X2 mm. The large Z offset is to make sure the nozzle After a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem when there's intense stringing, infill gaps, Tim is correct and his answers above are a succinct summary of the steps to correct adhesion issues which is what your picture is showing. If you don't, you might tear off bits of the film. Tweaked fan settings to ramp down the cooling and slowed speed a little. I'm running the generic PETG filament profile and have adjusted first layer to 235, bed 95. PETG is one of the most hygroscopic plastics. #4 Created using Prusa’s PETG technical data sheet but with pressure advance of 0. Printed PETG dehydrator parts at work printer, to use at home. 1 spacing between ironing Changing to 250C has reduced stringing in some of my PETG filaments. Prints perfectly with PLA but PETG seems to result in the nozzle slightly dragging in the first layer and accumulating filament. I'm using the original printing sheet and spraying a light coat of hairspray to protect the PEI. I print eSun Petg on the satin sheet and I find the black is just perfect on generic Petg profile in prusa slicer, however the white is another story, if the ambient drops below 25 deg in the enclosure I print almost exclusively PETG. I’m using Prusa PETG Galaxy Black with slower printing speeds to get the desired results. I have had no adhesion or first layer issues in 5. I am stumped on this one. they wanted a video of me bending it so they could determine if it is really petg. Since then I have experienced the same issue on my MK3 when I started pushing the flow rate. Flow calibration doesn't improve it. I do get a good first layer but throughout the print I get lots of stringing and some lumps as seen in this example. I'll keep posted what changes helped to help in case someone has similar problems. and often problems use crowd sourced solutions. I tried new bed, filament, settings but it doesnt really affect the result. 15mm and 240C on the nozzle, I'm getting the tearing like this. 2mm Quality settings. I am using the Prusa PET profile in Prusa Slic3r. Supports from the build plate are difficult to remove without damaging the part. If you have a lot of gap fill, consider reducing the gap fill speed a bit. Original or Custom firmware - Original. I had the same issue with small parts, where filament in the dry box is okay, but filament in the tube going from the dry box to the printer gets more wet in the time, especially In my experience the Slic3r PE presets are good for PETG but speeds are too fast. Hatchbox or Amazon basic, but all are bad). Added time for one layer is well worth it if the Mk4 petg issues Solved Printing a hotend fan cover for the mk4 with leftover Prusament that came with my mk3-mk4 upgrade and I am getting this weird underextrusion. PETG requires a bit less squish (a less negative Live-Z value) than PLA. Changed to PETG and am having troubles. The right first layer setting for pla is too close and too fast for petg, petg wants to be deposited rather than squished, else you get a lot of blobs like pictured. Having issues with supports. You want a textured or satin sheet for PETG. I saw that PrusaSlicer has profile ready for this PETG so I was thrilled to see great prints. I printed your part with no issues what so ever using a properly adjusted profile. The bed can be way lower for PETG and it can be the same as pla otherwise the xl fw won’t be happy, because the Prusa “Engineers” are not good at understanding requirements and constraints. gcode. 2mm higher than that for the textured powder coated steel sheet, 1. 0-alpha3 firmware. I created this new issue, as the problem persists in the latest PrusaSlicer version, and also affects Prusa XL, not only Prusa MINI. I am using PrusaControl and the default Prusa settings for their PETG. Pla prints perfectly. As far a I can tell there's no Re: PETG bed adhesion issues. I used zero infill with 2 perimeters in both ways, normal and external first. Print temp: 240c. RE: XL first layer problems with PETG, nozzle "leaks" while in "absorbing heat" mode, filament blob screws up flatness calibration? Also, the material presets for materials are way too hot. Parts do not stick to the bed and look like they get stuck to the nozzle, peeling up ends of lines and eventually creating a blob on the nozzle. PETG likes going slow. Sudden bed adhesion issues (Prusa XL2) Question/Need help I'm suddenly having a lot of bed adhesion issues - just using smooth sheet, . 95 multiplier is making it even worse. The idler tension screws are nonsense, they do absolutely nothing. I hope you can solve this issue! Prusa mk3s, polymaker polylite petg (tried a couple other brands too, similar results) prusaslicer 2. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesnâ 5. Belts are perfectly taut, checked with the belt tensioner site. These materials need a lot of print cooling, which is harder to achieve with a higher ambient temperature. Posting what support has responded with is helpful to know in troubleshooting. RE: Issues with prusament jet black pla. The The issue is not the nozzle or heat block setup. 2, PrusaSlicer 2. like if I only had PETG laying around) Next I tried Jessie PETG in blue and had the same issues. Generated gcode for a part in Prusa PETG and checked nozzle and bed temps were correct - 230 first layer and 240 for nozzle and 85 for bed. and also from most reviews and reading I've seen. It looks like you might be a bit low. The dastardly PETG just keeps building up on the nozzle cone and sooner or later drips off in a charred booger. • Checked fans - I even cranked the fan for the ABS print. Print Settings : 0. I had a lot of trouble with PETG sticking too well to the smooth sheet so I bought a textured sheet for my PETG prints. Previously I was running 50% across the entire print on PETG. x one. Use the glue stick with PETG on this smooth surface. All things related to Prusa 3D printers Re: Flow and/or bed adhesion problems. I cobbled together a bunch of different advice online and fixed the profile to work a bit better, but it's still a long way from the reliability of Pretty new to printing with PETG. I am using a new Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer kit. RE: Stringing Issues. I know I should dig into the settings in Slic3r and reduce speeds there but this is working for now. The appearance at the seams is the dead giveaway. Using prusalicer's standard prusament PETG settings (85/90C bed temp) and no bed preparation, my prints unstick mid-print or lift the corners if large enough. 7. 2mm quality, I've had similar issues with other petg, but not ASA or ABS or PLA. I am having problems printing with PETG. I had a similar issue. ) PETG on the satin sheet works fine for me. I’ve started with the generic PETG profile. On the Prusa, I have run several rolls of PETG. I use the Prusa Slicer and Cura and print with the The issue with my Prusa MK4 only occurs with the textured sheet. 05 fixed it for them. Very similar issues, this extruder has problems. Hi All, I'm a new purse mini+ user, and I have issues with stringing with a brand new prusament petg. I'm using the default Prusa PETG filament profile in prusa slicer with some adjustments like a 3 loop skirt (because it tends to botch the initial purge extrusion) and 60-80% infill. Main problem is first layer Benchy PETG Issues. Pictures of boxes and shipping notices are considered low-effort and will be removed. I have this exact same problem, and especially with Prusament PETG (vs. Prusa petg prints beautifully with default profiles, but this other RE: Terrible PETG print. I totally get it that PETG bed-temp should be 85°C but it should keep the The default infill speed is too fast for some PETG. 6. Under extrusion or gaps at seams with latest versions of PrusaSlicer/firmware #11914; Project file & How to reproduce. Also as a heads up you probably shouldn't print PETG on the smooth sheet, it sticks too well and can rip off the PEI layer when removing the part. 5/S, having the expansion joints in the wrong PETG Issue (Prusa Mini+) So I had some issues as I got my Lack enclosure going, with generic PETG settings on 0. Unfortunately, I do not succeed to print. Printer: Prusa MK3. After successfully printing PLA for a while, I am trying to switch to a PETG spool I have ordered with the printer kit from Prusa. 1. Clean in while it is cooled down with 99% IPA and a clean paper towel. FIRMWARE 4. Prusament PETG is 240 nozzle for all layers, 85 bed first layer and 90 after. Will try adjusting temps next. 35 to 0. I tightened a C clamp against the idler door, and many issues Sudden issues printing PETG - clumping, stringing. I then put the PETG-roll in my PETG is very sticky, and at input shaper speeds can tear the seams apart like you're seeing. I use Prusa's default print profiles and keep my filament dry. 475 was good based on the adhesion and smoothness of the top of the print. 0. 3 -0. Print a As someone who prints exclusively with petg, your first layer too close. Howeve English. Once you get them to work well, you can try tweaking one way or another. i haven’t had a chance to do that. That's very likely the issue, especially with a sticky material like PETG. Copypasta - Live-Z High/Low New Pictures 2023/03/12 New MK3S+ First Prints and severe PETG warping issues. I’ve used the default Prusament PETG filament profile in Prusaslicer 2. Recently, with the same sheets and same PINDA and calibration setup I've successfully printed 3 colors of hatchbox Original Prusa i3 MK3 & MK3S & MK3S+ How do I print this? (Printing help) PETG Issues . 1) throws in a "M140 S85" at the second layer and keeps that bed-temp until the end of the print. Show off your prints, or ask a You butchered this profile, changing things when you didn't understand what they do, and that's why your PETG isn't printing well, PETG can bridge just fine. PETG Benchy issues. Prusa recommends against wetting your PEI sheets because the steel will Overture PETG curling up at edges and small blobbing - Beginner needing help. This doesn’t seem to happen on all prints, just a select few. 5s, Ender3 with many mods, Prusa Mini kit with Bondtech heat break, Prusa I3 Mk3s+ kit. I currently use 15mm/s speed and 300mm/s2 acceleration. Also changed the retraction length. So, according to these readings, the Prusa nozzle temperature calibration is good. 05 due to lines way too thin (. I am running the Generic settings for speed after the first layer Prusa PETG poor print. Using it is like playing a game of chance. For anybody new to a Prusa, don't fight this or try to think of reasons it won't work. 95. This is a very frustrating limitation, especially when printing with PETG. Gyroid infill is printed much slower, so it will not show similar issues. It might be necessary if you plan to use a lot of PETG. . I've been working with my Prusa printer for about a month, and was churning out consistent prints with Prusament PLA and PETG. English; Čeština; Prusa i3 MK3s & Printing Prusa PETG. Nozzle: . I've thoroughly cleaned the build plate with dish soap several times as well. For the record, the temperature is set at 230 °C for the first layer and at 240 When I am printing with PETG, the nozzle cleanup procedure is insufficient to remove filament residue. Sure enough, it completely RE: PETG Issues. 3 Upgrades and modifications No response Printing from PrusaLink Describe the bug After the MK4s upgrade, printing PETG started producing a new squeaking noise. I am using a textured plate and I have had a couple of extruder clogs on the first layer and even mid print. I print almost exclusively Hatchbox PETG, Colorfab ngen and XT I vary the temperature between 230C and 240C depending on layer height. CHT has let you get away with that temp, but that's low for PETG. Mk4 petg issues upvotes · Here are images of the bracket in both PLA (Prusa Galaxy Black) and PETG (eSun Black). but the heart of the printing mechanism is pretty solid in my very limited experience. Switched over to the generic PETG file. Just try it. Gap fill followed by a print head moving to a new part often causes stringing in my parts. I have had my MK4 since Jun-2023, and never a single issue printing PETG. The issue has not changed in the slightest with all the changes. Prusa temp 280°C -> thermocouple temp 284°C. I do get a little stringing sometimes when print head has to move back and forth between two narrow parts that are close together. I started with the stock settings and increasing the retraction by a mm each time. PLA using PrusaSlicer defaults prints beautifully. There is a similar issue, describing the same problem for Prusa MINI+. What should I do? I’ve been printing almost exclusively with PETG with the MMU3 on MK4 and I’ve had no issues with PETG. I could hear the moisture in the filament popping and making those boogers, crap, etc. e, pla should be 200c not 220 per the preset. The test prints on the usb worked wonderfully with pla and I even tried petg and they still were beautiful. In case anyone else has this issue, I solved it by following the advice in this thread. Default settings, everything printed great. I have the same problem with both PLA and First I thought I had a clogged nozzle, and after some attempts to unclog, I ended on putting on my 0. I just tried to print a temperature and bridging tower with terrible results on every level. I've been pleasantly surprised in this I currently use a Prusa Mk3S+ and use PETG exclusively with it. but i feel pretty confident it is since i don’t think pla would produce a very good print with temps of 260 nozzle and 90 bed. may result in problems you wouldn't expect. Not much but enough to have to clean the nozzle between prints to avoid clumps of filament dropping on the subsequent prints. It will require 65° for at least 6 hours in the dryer. Unfortunately it's now faulting out on mintemp issue, so I've ordered a new thermister. #3 Generic PETG profile with 3dball’s settings and pressure advance of 0. All things related to Prusa 3D printers. Maybe the printer is underextruding and the 0. It's not the first time I've read about problems on some MK4s, even on the PETG first layer issues Been trying and failing to print PETG on the textured sheet for a week now and constantly failing before the first layer is finished. The assembly went well and the printer passed all its self-checks and calibration. 4mm nozzle setup with brand new PETG and had issues. Update After few tests: The new cap helped a bit, but not completely (could be also the subjective feeling from my point of view), issue still persist - 1st layer on textured sheet on XL is not consistent - Too low or too high printing temperature can cause print issues as well. English; Čeština; Deutsch; Español; Français; Italiano; Polski; Login. PETG should be 235 not 240. The only problem I usually have is the notorious "Hair" issue with PETG. Bed temp: 90c. The recent Prusa slicer settings update have slowed down the infill speeds. Prusa recommend using a barrier agent to reduce adhesion on Smooth PEI, Options include The out of the box printing with Prusa Galaxy Black PETG, for example, was terrible. 1 I went through 1kg of eSun’s black PETG - no false alarms from the filament probe - then ran out of this black PETG mid-print (correctly detected by the probe), loaded some transparent PETG (Surreal brand this time) and continued from there. I'm attempting to print a very basic model on my new mk4 in PETG. I have tried a few settings and made some images for judgement. 20 works without the multiplier change, but problems in pics still exist). #5 Created using Prusa’s PETG technical data sheet but with pressure advance of 0. Chasing a few issues with PETG and I'm sure it didn't change on one of the prints but checked it again with both PLA and PETG and its changing to the correct nozzle temps. I agree that the presets being provided by Prusa should not have this problem, but if it is a linear advance issue you should be able to fix it calibrating the linear advance settings. Now after reaching about 11mm retraction the stringing was better BUT it then wasn't extruding enough material and the string towers were deformed. Just completed a 5 color, 24 hour MMU2S print with 0 issues or interventions After tuning my Mini, it seems to be printing well. All initial tests and calibrations ran and passed with no difficulties. The PLA looks amazing. Then I tried turning off input shaper, all with no luck. Posted : I had huge problems with petg on the textured sheet until I washed it - thoroughly- in the kitchen sink, with soap- and thoroughly rinsed it. PETG really wants to stick to I've noticed similar issues with my XL. RE: PETG Heavily Sticking to Heatbed. Only issue I had was tweaking the settings for supports. RE: First layer issues. I also did some prints with PLA for comparison. Wrapping Up. Filament Clumps. Trouble printing PETG. Best of luck, let us know how it goes. I would not be surprised if my thermocouple reader and/or thermocouple are a few degrees off, and it is the Prusa that is closer to the real temperature, in fact. Is this underextrusion or is it simply going too fast? The first layer went down cleanly. See the outcome and my setting attached. PETG generally like squish and slow on 1st layer. turned on avoid crossing perimeters. Prusa mk3s+ problems 2. anyone else having issues with Prusa PETG Jet black clogging their extrusion motor and gears as well as the nozzle on the Mini+? I've had this one roll that keeps being a nuisance, I've upped the temperature to 260°C on the (stainless steel) nozzle and it still seems to clog both hotend and the extruder ( although one might lead to the other). Re: Issues with Hatchbox PETG. I wanted to print prusa mini+ base, so I bought PETG - Devil Design Black PETG to be exact. Vaciar todo. Greetings! I am new, first time 3D printer owner. My testing so far: "Best" results were with temps at 235C Bed Temp at 90C Fan set to 0-20% MK4 - PLA printing issues (new to 3D printing); PETG works. I would be interested in this too. For what it’s worth, I’ve had 0 problems with the filament sensor - on 3. Hello all, The past couple of days have been a nightmare with regards to printing esun pla+. I. It looks like your under extruding to me. Filament Settings - Prusa PETG -All default except extrusion multiplier set to 1. The PETG is heavily stringed. Had the same issue after my MK4S-upgrade and PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its low price and good printability. Problems Printing With Inland PETG. 6. 9/S, and MK3. Any better ideas? Big John. I succeed with very large brim. 2 mm Quality, Prusament PETG (using generic PETG setting) First off. Hi, I just finished assembling my new Mk4 in its new enclosure, tried my firts prints on a new textured sheet and I exeprience warping issues while printing with PETG. ) The biggest problem is it blobbing on the build plate, or climbing up the nozzle, or leaving clumps every 10 minutes or so. You can purchase the Original Prusa Enclosure in our e-shop. yea i did but they couldn’t say if there was a goof up or not. And never touch the plate with your But I have consistent problems with clear PETG ("Made for Prusa" brand or Overture or Taulman. There are two similar parts on the plate, and one of them (always the same) keeps warping then coming off the plate. The IS values are already set on the machine, but a couple of lines of GCODE can be added to the printer profile in the slicer to change it, one for each axis. No issues with adhesion. The sheet may look clean but there are still oils on the sheet. • Updated the firmware to the latest • Re-did first layer calibration • PID Tune The first layers are perfect. Show off your prints, or ask a question. Tried printing at 225-240 and still the same issue. Anytime I have this issue with PETG it is because the textured sheet was not clean enough. The prime tower you can tweak the size like 40 width and the volumes like 10 might work better for you with petg and move it closer to your seam I have been having some issues with Prusament PETG on my Prusa Mini, so have been trying various retraction settings. This seems to have corrected that problem Prusa temp 240°C -> thermocouple temp 243°C. Describe the bug Some of the time when using PETG (Default Prusament PETG settings in Prusaslicer), it will say "Nozzle Cleaning", slowly probe the bed about 10 times and then say "Nozzle Cleaning Failed" Prusa printers (most 3D printers) are not an appliance, they are an open sourced device that naturally appeals to makers, tinkerers, designers, etc. If the humidity in the room is over 30% it may make 24 hours before needing to be dried again. I find that the Hatchbox can be very sensitive to Z-level has problems when the bed is not perfectly level. Hey Folks, Just received my X1C, PLA works a treat from the quick tests I have done, but I can not get PETG to work reliably. Hello all! I have been trying to print with some Overture PETG and am having some issues, specifically with the supports. Tried securing the nozzle and no dice. Maybe if you stick with only prusa brand filament, but I have some non-prusa petg that has dramatically worse first layer adhesion. zip project. Reply reply Terbos90803 • I checked the nozzle and it was ok. With PETG, the single fan is far more than enough cooling, so you'll see a much better benefit to prints with PETG. RE: PETG adhesion issue. Here is my non scrubbed, original PRUSA textured sheet which PETG DOES stick to: Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. 4 with Prusament, Overture, Eryone, Sunlu and Polymaker. ), RE: Stringing Issues. Some specialty materials, like Flexible materials, may require many adjustments and tweaks to print them successfully. Good morning Jorge, The smooth stickered sheet has a thicker layer of non conductive material (Adhesive layer plus PEI Sheet) on each side of the core spring steel, so your live Z for the sticker sheet should be about 0. I have run into this depending on the filament manufacturer. PETG Issues on Mk2 Last Post RSS zenbike (@zenbike) Active Member. I've printed at least 500 hours of PETG from 3-5 different manufacturers and have found it prints virtually better than PLA, except for overhangs, in which cooling Top most issue: Wet filament! Yup, this was the biggest problem. 5 nozzle default pla profiles. Hi guys, New to 3D printing so bear with me, Otherwise, especially if you are new to 3D printing, I would just stick to the default settings in Prusa Slicer. 2mm and turn first layer speed and acceleration well down. I did some retraction test with prusaslicer and prusament profile. PETG like to be laid down more than squished. I’m currently about 80% through the transparent If you consider printing PETG on the smooth PEI sheet, please be aware that It may bond too well, and be difficult to remove. Manually transferred with a thumb drive. The purple filament is PLA. PETG issue. Problems printing with PETG I have just started printing with PETG on a satin coated bed sheet. 2. Avisos . dried my petg at work drier for 5 hours. when it`s starting on a new layer it looks like it stops extruding for . Adjusted belts, new build platform. RE: PETG Printing problems. PETG Issues Página 2 / 2 Anterior Último Mensaje RSS David Chilson From my experience with Prusa, PETG likes a textured surface more than a smooth one. . Wondering what I should start tweaking, air temp is only 18. Those have been tested and generally work quite well. I know Prusa doesn’t recommend it but a lot of people here use hot water and non-fragrant dish water liquid such as Dawn regularly, with excellent results. I was using the Prusa Satin powder sheet but encountered too many issues with PETG on it, and it looks like your're in the same situation I was. in the manufacturer profile for Prusa Slicer was about 10 deg. Hi got my prusa mini+ a couple of days ago and trid my first petg print yesterday, it all looks good accept from one thing. I built my MK3S+ a few days ago and am loving it! but I had not changed anything in the settings/profiles from the standard prusa PETG profile aside from slightly different temperatures based on my previous prints with the black color RE: Prusament PETG not sticking to the bed. I then printed a cali dragon, benchy, temp tower and another small trinket in the middle of the build plate in PETG. It is not that quality is consistantly bad, but there are weird artefacts when printing holes. 0 with IS when printing PLA, however I It worked great afterward for hatchbox PLA and PETG (with a glue wipe). I downloaded a Stringing tower to confirm that the PETG settings were less the optimal . Log in to be able to post. I swapped back to the smooth PEI and printed a handful of things in PLA with no issues. Switched to Original Prusa MK4 config, NOT the input shaper. As PETG is a material Generally I've printed AmazonBasics and eSun PETG using either Prusa PETG or Prusament PETG as my base settings, and 0. I have a lot of criticisms of Prusa stuff. I am using only Prusament filaments - Prusament PETG, checked correct temperatures (230/240), bed temp 80, lowered speed to 80-90% + lowered speed from 500 m/s to 400 m/s for first layer, tried BRIM as well, surface is cleaned with IPA and using Printer model MK4s Firmware version 6. PETG Issues on Mk2. PETG I ran 50% fan and 100% on top layer. 0 but still I lack the adhesion with the plates. I had the same issue on PETG. 0 with default setting for MK4, generic PETG and 0. This is why everything else is printing fine besides your infill. These temp towers are both PETG and the bridging you see on them is almost 30mm (more then an inch), Prusa mini+ PETG stringing. RE: PETG support layer adhesion problems. That looks like your Live-Z is too low and the nozzle is scraping up filament on your 1st layer. Have the same filament (PETG Black from dasfilament) and compared for example to Prusa PETG orange it strings much more or needs other settings than the Prusa PET ones. Nozzle Retraction: Prusaslicer default for genetic PETG. I can't compare the 2 firmwares as I haven't printed PETG on the older 4. I have a 7+ hour print that consistently runs into thermal anomalies at around the 80 minute mark. It seems like the layers just don't adhere, but I feel like I've tried just about everything. Just had the same issue, printer running on 5. I have a new mini+ and am having issues printing PETG (turqouise/light blue purchased from Prusa). I tried using a brand new Nextruder . The faster you print, the faster the extruder has to push filament through The PETG is Polymaker. I had read some comments here before about people saying Polymaker and Jessie PETG weren’t great with adhesion and some colors are even more problematic. I’ve tightened the idler spring screws a just to be sure, I guess I printed 50 to 100 things on the prusa mk4, those 2 first layer errors have been my first issue but I was a bit disappointed cause now I need to watch the 1st layer again! First Layer issues. Hi all, I am proud owner of a i3 MK2/S I built from a kit. I started with all default settings (3,2mm retraction distance), this is the result: PLA MMU3print, Purge blocks seem to be more widely spaced than PETG Purge blocks, perhaps this is to allow the strands to cool more quickly I'm using all Prusa everything and I am having issues with the printer over RE: PETG print looks bad and shows stringing. zip Help a Beginner with PETG? Hello, Complete newb here. I think I have my PRUSA PETG dialled in, however my eSUN just doesn’t want to play ball. I have a new MK3S+ kit, new textured sheet (washed with dish soap several times), and new Prusa Galaxy Black PETG. Sorted the z height (or so I thought). I printed a large plaque and enabled ironing but I'm having some issues with iro Good morning all! After tuning my Mini, it seems to be printing well. Been getting stringing issues with blobs all over the place as well. Prusa Connect issue with Mk4/MMU3 upvotes r/prusa3d. I just started printing PETG and am running into some issues with bridging and some of the layers don't seem very smooth. It's always the infill that was the issue. 15mm Optimal MK3 as my print se English. After a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem when there's intense stringing, infill gaps, artifacts, the object sometimes detaches from the plate. 3. First layer is good, but past that it puts tears in outer walls and then the infill self destructs as pictured. Re: Small Perimeter Issues (PETG) Yep, well too high. Optional upgrades - None. 9C, one of Issues with PETG on brand-new mini+ (preassembled) Hi! I got my Mini+ a week ago together with Prusa Galaxy Black PLA. 05 / nozzle @ 260c / bed 75c / Max flow 11. 6mm hardened steel nozzle. Generic PETg profile in PS and/or Cura. 5 "generic petg," . I have tried to go through some posts here and set as best as possible but still warping. 6mm nozzle has generic and Prusa PETG at 240 first layer and 235 after, with 85 bed first layer and 90 after. On my machine it seems the slicer just does a straight up vertical Z lift prior to changing tools, which causes a long thin wisp of PLA/PETG to get blown about by the fan. On both the CEL Robox and the Ultimaker 3 extended, I have tweaked the settings so that I do not have that issue any longer. I think one of the issues is that the idler is completely mis-fit, and provides almost no pressure to the filament against the extruder gear. Orange Benchy: Prusa Slicer , 0. I also unchecked keep cooling fan on and set min and max fan speed to 0-70. Thank you so much, that fixed it for me too (as a workaround until Prusa fixes it). Regardless, it looks as though there is some kind of attachment issue in securing the outer wall of the cube to the inner wall of the circle, and once that fails, the Printing PLA or PETG in an enclosure might not be a good idea. Printer type - MK4 Printer firmware version - 5. Topic Tags: PETG supports (1), PETG issues (16), Share: Forum Statistics Brand new Mk4/textured sheet/enclosure and warping PETG. I run PETG on my other two printers as well, with very good results. Petg benchy problems Ok, so this is my first real print on a Prusa mini+ with urban grey Prusament petg using Prusa Slicer. Prusa docs and forum posts have helped me with every issue to this point but I could use some input on this as I feel like I’ve tried everything. I print lots of things using PLA and PETG. Prusa Mk4 issues? comments. The MK4 has an internally set extrusion multiplier of 0. I have the same issue with my PETG on my MK4, things that stick like crazy to the bed on my MK3 and minis simply dont stick good enough on the mk4. The trouble seems to be 3 things, though I’m new to this so I could be z seam issues. Thanks. I switched to a new filament and many of the issues are gone. The settings currently being used are the DEFAULT PETG settings in Prusa slicer. 2 Using Prusaslicer 2. The preset for the Mk4 with a 0. I tried to print PETG but I’m not happy with the quality. (used prusa gcode viewer, and the upper I’m having the same issues except it’s petg to textured sheet. 048 (per my line test). I have tried to change the Temp at nozzle down to 225 and bed cooler at 80. Dried PETG on home dehydrator for 12 hours. Prusa MK3. 45, and increased my temperature to 245 for the whole print (usually do petg at 240). one of them with the worst issue is still on the as shipped from Prusa nozzle and hotend, and it looks textbook perfect nozzle spacing. Thought -1. As you can see in the notes, no one has any issues with the cylindrical part. I only had this problem at lower layer heights, so not exactly sure what would help best, but you could try tuning the outer perimeter speed down Try doing a flow test cube. (prusa PETG/extrudrPETG 0,4 nozzle, standard settings) But on the textured sheet most of the times the prints gets shoved around a short time into the print. I actually use a USB microscope to inspect my prints and make sure I get good bonding between extrude lines and not too much squish, but a simple pull test on first layer is usually good enough, too low and you get a rough rippled surface, too little and the extrude lines pull apart when tugged, get it right and There is no specific "Overture PETG" filament profile at the moment and "Prusa PETG" is meant mainly for Prusa PETG sold on Prusa3d e-shop. 4mm. I also find RE: PETG Issues. 15 Quality Defaults. First layer I print at 30% speed. Still had problems with PETG, so I tried printing with PLA and it printed perfectly. I solved most of my PETG problems-- bed adhesion, poor infill-- by slowing down to about 60% just using the knob. Here a video I sent to the custom Doesn't matter if I use Prusament PETG, Pruasament PLA or any other non-Prusa filament. 020 (sheer curiosity since this is the PA used by RE: PETG not sticking to textured sheet? how do you offset the z value ? ( funny i just wanted to open a toppic with the same question. other layers 240/90. I’m having some issues getting the Mark 2 to work with PETG. If your filament brand and type is not listed in PrusaSlicer, you can try to adjust the print temperature by +/- 5-15°C to see if this resolves the issue. It is also possible to make your own enclosure. First layer quish is spot on and haven't seen any warping yet even without an enclosure. With the Prusa Mini, I almost exclusively used the textured sheet, so I ordered it for the MK4 as well. Hi I got my X1CC only 2 weeks ago. If you are able to get some good prints, that means it's not a PINDA level or other mechanical issue. USB drive or USB/Octoprint USB Drive. 2 of a second or RE: Printing problems. It prints well with nominal values using PLA. For the record, the temperature is set at 230 °C for the first layer and at 240 RE: PETG seam - good and bad on same object. 4 years ago. I'm using black overture PETG from amazon. (I did try PID tuning, thermal model calibration, etc. Problems with esun pla+ sticking to the bed. 3. I am having the same issue. I've made several tests. Prusa petg setting for filament,(this is hotter) Print setting: 0. My procedure for PETG is to clean the sheet using dish soap and water before thoroughly drying and placing back on the heated bed to make sure it dries well. I recently PETG issue. Use the Live Adjust Z function and First Layer Calibration (i3) options to tweak the height of the nozzle. I’ll try to summarize the problem and what I’ve done (sorry this is long winded, wanted to be detailed): All the settings will print with eSun petg so should work out for you. It sticks to the nozzle and affects the first layer. Try the base line settings in all the photos posted and set the flow ratio to 1. RE: Problems with PETG first layer. (Again, tase don't happen with non-clear. wgtb dtsga nblg ajit zke fjo gumptt uspp kyqnx kqpxw